The beginning of the anti-aging phenomenon began in 1971 with the FDA’s approval of Retinoic Acid for acne, marketed under the trade name Retin-A®. Studies done in 1986 demonstrated Retin-A also dramatically improved the color and texture of skin, particularly eliminating fine lines and easing gesture lines. Thus the science of reversing the visible evidence of aging was born, ushering the beginning of a different type of beauty product, labeled “cosmeceuticals.”
Next came the Alpha Hydroxy Acids, with Glycolic Acid leading the parade with its published studies of successfully treating a skin disorder called Ichthyosis, where the skin’s natural exfoliation process is interrupted and ceases to perform, leading to scales upon scales of dead skin cells.
Thus the science of reversing the visible evidence of aging was born,
ushered in by a new type of beauty product dubbed “cosmeceuticals.”
Applying the success of Glycolic Acid to other skin types yielded spectacular results! Glycolic Acid redefined texture and minimized wrinkles through rapid exfoliation. It cleaned out clogged pores, thus clearing acne and reducing the size of the pores. This thinning out of the accumulated epidermal cells led to vibrant, healthy, younger looking skin!
Antioxidants were the third wave in the quest for younger looking, blemish free complexions. L-Ascorbic Acid still leads the pack followed closely by Idebenone, Ubiquinone or CoQ10. Anti-Oxidants reverse, prevent and protect the skin from free radical damage created by external factors as well as happening naturally with every breathe you take.
Next come the multitudes of categories such as proteins, peptides, enzymes, cytokines, growth factors, stem cells and others. Many of these restore the natural protective barrier of the skin, promote healthy metabolic activity and redirect skin cell functioning.
The goal of any anti-aging product protocol is to have as an
end result of the skin behaving like young skin.
Regulating cell division, differentiation, adhesion control and cell survival, Vitamin A Acid in the form of Retin-A® and Retinol are still the gold standard for reversing time followed closely by the AHA’s and Anti-Oxidants.
May the buyer beware, when you read about “new” ingredients from this rare plant in some unknown country being The Anti-Ager, keep in mind these are not heavy hitters in the skin care industry. They may do something (more often than not, just moisturize), they may be expensive and have fabulous advertising and advertorials. They may even have a place in your anti-aging skin care that you’re comfortable with. But if you bank all your expectations on these, you will be spending a lot of money for itsy bitsy tiny results.
(First published 11/24/13)